Pashupatinath

This is nepals oldest and largest Hindu site. It is regarded as the most sacred temple of Shiva (Pashupati) in the world. Thousands of pilgrims from all over the world, particularly from Nepal and India pay homage to this temple everyday. "Shivaratri" or night of lord Shiva is an especially important day in this temple when tens of thousands of people throng here for the annual celebration. Said another way, this is where the burn folks up and pour their ashes into the river. This goes on 24 hours a day, 7 days a week! You got NO right to complain about YOUR neighbors! A shot of the area.
A macque
A cow and some pigeons.

Bhaktapur

So I take a day trip to the local area of Bhaktapur. Bhaktapur means "the city of devotess" in the Sanskrit language. It is also known as Bhadgaon and was founded by in 889 AD by King Anand Dev. Funny, I thought it meant place where tourists go to get hassled to buy bobbles and fobs you don't need. Pashmina, Pashmina....Jesus H. I DO NOT need a pashmina. Well, maybe one. Here I find a huge iron bell.
One girl didn't wanna pose for a photo. The other, well clearly she didn't mind.
Lots of people, lots of photos.

Hanging in Kathmandu AGAIN

Since we get back to Kathmandu early, we have a problem. We were not expected back until the 1st of November. It's the 23rd. Hmmmm...Flights are booked. Looks like I hang out in Kathmandu for a few days.

Later I go to pashupatinath, the largest Hindu shrine in the entire region.

I also spent a day in Pokara and a day in Bhaktipur

(Photos later)

Kathmandu Again

Wow.

I didn't set out looking for a huge black bong, shaped like a penis, but I found one.

Lukla

So we hike back to Lukla, and I get stinking drunk with the Italians I'd seen so many times during the trip....They were great fun. This is the only photo I have of that evening. It is a blurr, just like the memories.

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• The start of the nepal "festival of lights." Which in Nepalese terms, means party.
• Drinking tons of cheap whiskey and beer
• Staggering and stumbling back to my hotel at 1am
• Falling down HARD and feeling significant pain. Oooohh....Did that hurt!
• Laying there until a Sherpa comes and picks me up out of the dirty water.
• As a result of the fall, tearing a hole in the knee of my pants, and cracking a rib.
• Yes, I am an adult, but you'd be hard pressed to find any evidence of it!!!

Tongba on my Birthday

After a long days of walking we were in Namche Bazzar again. This is me sandwiched in some crazy Italians and a typically conservative German, drinking Tongba. This stuff was a huge container of some sort of fermented millet into which hot water was poured. It was horrible tasting and didn't even make you drunk. Even if I wasn't hammered, hanging with the Italians was a total blast. I went back to my guest house with a killer headache, mostly from laughing!

I told several people it was my 43rd birthday. Not sure why, since I only turned 42!!!

Tyangboche and Pangboche

I get a treat in Tyangboche, and take a couple of nice photos in Pangboche.

This huge rock (10 feet) high was along the trail near Island Peak. I am sure aliens carved it, and left it here for us to figure out how it got here, just like they built they pyramids of Eqypt. Ask any alien you meet, they will get you down low.

This was a little guest house and bakery near the town of Tyangboche. This is me, eating a chocolate donut and a cimm-uh-mum bun.

These are two budhist stupas near the little town of Pangboche.

Island Peak Base Camp and Dakman Ry

The hike from Chukung to Island Peak base camp, was suppsed to be 3 hours. Once again, we make it in well under that time and just about 2 hours.

This is the guy who carried my bag then entire time I was in Nepal. His first name is Dakman Ry (not sure of the spelling). Dakman Ry was bout 5' 6" and about 130 lbs. He was also amazingly strong.

On the daily voyage, I would pack my big black patagonia bag and haul it out side. Dakman Ry would lift my 60 lbs of crap and put it on top of his basket. These baskets were triangular in shape. Dakman Ry's stuff went into the basket, and my giant bag went on top.

Dakman Ry would leave while we ate breakfast. I would usually catch him an hour or so later, but remember, I didn't really have anything to carry. He had EVERYTHING. This guy impressed the hell out of me. He spoke no English, so I didn't get to know him very well, but for all his work, he was paid 500 rupees a day, or about 8 US dollars. I made sure he got a tip when we were back in Lukla.

Imja Tse (Island Peak) Climb

Our schedule accomodates for several bad weather days. This is expecially critical, later in the season. As we are half way through October, really important to have a flexible climbing schedule.

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We get to Island Peak Base camp on the 17th. I'm hoping that we can climb on my birthday, the 20. That would be fantastic.

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I discuss the details with Pemba. He easily concludes we climb tonight. Huh? Well, I was feeling really good. The weather was crystal clear. Go now, while you can! Island Peak was first climbed in 1953 by Eric Shipton and Tengsing Norgay to very well known climbers. Cool thing about it, is it sits in the middle of some of the greatest mountains in the world, such as Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam.

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Pemba tells me we can leave later than everyone else, since I'm going so fast and feeling so strong. Good, I got no problems with that. I really wondered if I could even adjust to high altitude. During my entire time in Tibet, I felt horrible. Never really got to feeling good, just never better than OK.

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So the climb was about 5 hours up and about 4-5 hours down. We starte at about 17K feet, and clmbed Island Peak, @ an altitude of 20,305.

Me on the snow field at about 19K feet. This was technically on the way down since on the way up, it was too cold and I could not get my little sony camera to take pictures.This is a picture of the headwall (I later learned it's 320 feet tall, but I tell you, it felt MUCH taller.) I stole off the internet. The route runs up along the left, before the snow gullies. When you approach the head wall, you have the option of placing pickets (aluminum posts) and climbing it, or jumaring (pulling yourself up with a device called an ascender) up the fixed rope. I quickly assessed success and risks. Jumar was safer and easier. No big decision, huh? This is me @ the top of the famous headwall. That is a half-assed smile, more a grimace than anything else. I've not jumared before, nor had I ever climbed on a fixed rope before. Both were good learning experiences. The process worked something like this:

1. Jumar (run ascender up the rope) with left hand.
2. Stab ice axe into the snow with right hand.
3. Take a step up with left foot.
4. Follow up with step of right foot.
5. Take a breath.
6. Take a breath.
7. Repeat @ step 1.
   A group of German climbers has come around me @ the top of the head wall. I stopped to catch my breath, and take some photos. These guys (one woman) motored to the top. I thought I was able to move fast. These guys were even faster. Looking over the edge (as you can see on the right hand part of the photo) is one beastly fall. This is me at the top of Island Peak. Ama Dablam is in the background. Pemba took this shot. I got to spend about 15 minutes @ the top. Crystal clear and amazing view. Not bad. But, the sun was starting to warm the snow, and loosen the pickets on the fixed ropes. If they pull out, a tumble you will go, a tumble you will go, Hi Ho the Dairy O, a tumble you will go..... Time to get off the mountain!

Chukung

After Dingboche, we head on to a little town called Chukung. There is 3 guest houses in Chukung and the first one we go to, is all full up...Hmmm...Are we going to be camping? Good thing I've got all my gear....Oh we don't have a tent, since the porters are supposed to bring that tomorrow, when we need it. Damn.... Pembe gets me a room @ the Chukung Resort.
He was also a guest.
Pemba and I go for a little day hike and climb up Chukung Ri. Similar to Kala Pattar, it's a day hike kinda thing. Unfortunately, we left later in the afternoon, and the cloud cover was thick as smoke here @ about 18K feet. Pemba saying hello.
This is me with what you can see of the Lotse wall behind me.

Dingboche

We make our way back down the Kumbu Glacier trail and start heading in an easternly fashion towards Ama Dablam to climb, Island Peak. I have no idea where I took this photo.

Dingboche was a great place. I mean it. It was the best tea house, had the nicest people and I met Tony and Patricia, who live outside London. Since we stayed there for 2 days, I was able to get ALL my laundry done. Lte me tell you, that was a major accomplishment. Hell, I even got myself a shower. The shower (they manually have to boil the water for you, since they have limited electricity) I think cost 300 rupees, which was about 3-4 bucks....It was worth every stinking penny.

Gorek Shep and Kala Pattar

So the puny little town of Gorek Shep is the last civilized place before you go on to Everest base Camp. There were only three places to stay here. Ours had the best food, but the crappiest rooms. This is a guest house in front of Nupse.
This is me, sitting in front of Nupse.
This a closer up of me, in front of Nupse.
This picture is for Eilie and Chelsea, my nieces who are complete horse freaks. Now, this wasn't a horse as much as he was a stocky, furry pony. However, he's looked like he was doing pretty well @ 17K feet elevation.
At Gorek Shep we hiked a local little mountain called Kala Pattar. This is a couple of Aussies who joined me @ the top.

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We left the guest house @ Gorek Shep at about 6am. Pemba told me, I was hiking and walking so fast that we could get an extra hour of sleep and still beat everone up to the top. I was up and ready @ 5:45. Pemba was still sleeping....Anyway, Pemba he was almost right. I did leave an hour later and get there BARELY before the sun shone on the peak. In fact the last 50 feet I had to run to get to the top before the sun! So when I got to the top some folks were already coming down since it was quite cool up there @ 7am. I sat down just as the sun hit the top and spent the next 2 hours hanging in the sun.

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Frankly I was a little disappointed in this "hike" since on the agenda it listed climb. When I read climb, I think climb, not day hike. It was a nice view, but for a climber, it was a joke and not worth the time.

Everest Base Camp

Since we left Loboeche @ 8 am, and got to Gorek Shep in an hour an 1/2, I discussed with Pemba about taking some time and going on so I could see Everest Base Camp from the Nepal side. Since I had been to Base camp on the Tibet side, I thought it would be cool to see both. As we get near Base camp you pass a helicopter that is over on it's side. According to the local Sherpas, these happened in 2003-04 to a group of climbers from the Indian Army. No one was killed as the 'choper' rammed its blades into the ground and flipped over.
This is me, somewhere along that trail.

As we get to Base camp, I'm starting to bonk. it's noon and we've not had any lunch. I've had difficulty this entire trip getting my calories in, and as a result having enough energy for treking and climbing. Once again, I find myself completely hammered.

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At base camp, Pemba starts chatting with somebody up there. He and Pemba seem quite friendly as I try to enjoy the view, hoping I don't pass out from exhaustion. I'm out of water and prepared to fish some out of the stream on our way back. Pemba's friend (I later learned his name was Pasang) offered to fill my bottle for me.

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Pasang returns with my water bottle full of warm orange liquid. I expected just plain old water so when I ask, he says Orange Juice!

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So I'm now thinking we're on our way back to Gorek Shep but Pemba sez, tha Pasang has invited us back to the kitchen tent, for tea and chatting. Cool...I learn that Pasang had been climbing for more than 20 years, and he's the lead climbing siddar (guy in charge) of a current Korean team who is ready to summit tomorrow! They have been here for 2 months getting camps stocked and lines fixed.

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So instead of just getting to see Everest Base Camp, I get to hang out with part of a climbing team, chat about logistics, drink tea, and veg.....nice.

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On the way back I take a sip of the Orange Juice. It's you guessed it, Tang.

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Dang!

With a Tang Bang

from Pasang

Along the trail,

I felt better

and begin to hang

Dang!

Loboeche

Finally after several days for treking, we get to see mountains with a decent view.

This yak didn't want his picture taken, but I asked nicely and gave him 10 rupees, and he seemed OK with it.

Me in front of Lotse wall.This is a hotel just up the trail from Loboeche. It's called the Pyramid, and it's own by an Italian company. It looked a little scruffy from the outside, but hell what doesn't look scruffy in Nepal?

Me?

Namche to Doboeche

Everybody sells everything, but everybody sells the same things. While staying @ these guest houses, it's pretty limited. However considering where we are, I'm surprised any of this stuff is available. It's all carried by porters from Lukla every day. I mean who couldn't pass up, both Whiskey and Biscuits?

We spend a couple days in Namche, then hike on to Doboeche. This is the town of Namche from the qranite path up the hill. It was much steeper than it looks.

Phakding to Namche

From Phakding to Namche was a haul of a hike. A couple of thousand feet in elevation gain, and a good 4-6 hours hiking. I packed light and carried my small camera, my water, sunscreen, lip balm, and purell hand sanitizer. I felt a world of difference being at altitude now. I felt stong and good.

This is me in front of a painted monument outside of Phakding.

This is a guest house or (tea house) on the trail. You will find these little guest houses almost everwhere in Nepal, especially along the more popular routes. Since this trail eventually leads to Everest Base Camp, it's REALLY popular. That's good because it means there is always a good supply of food, snacks and misc stuff.

Phakding

I'm sure I took photos in Phakding, but didn't have any worth posting up. As I recall the hike from Lukla to Phakding took about 3+ hours. The trail was wide, smooth and easy to navigate.

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The one thing I did not get a photo of, were the Maoists taking "donations" along the trailhead as an "entrance" fee. Now mind you, we had already paid entrance into the park.

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These bastards were extorting 2500 rupees per person to continue up the trail. 700 rupees is 10 USD, so like 35 dollars per person. Bullfuckingshit. Being the indignant American, I just walked past them. I'm not giving them shit and don't plan on it.

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I talked to many many climbers and trekkers during my time in Nepal. Everyone paid the 2500 rupees.

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p.s. On my way back down the mountain, three weeks later. I passed the same Maoists, on the same trail. I ignored them, just as I did the first time. They called me names, but I kept my 2500 rupees, both times. Bastards...

Climb Adventure Number Two

So few days after getting into Kathmandu, it's time to try another climb. Since my previous trip was cancelled, I decided to go on a private climb with the local operator, Himalayan Expeditions (HimEx). I review the planned itineary, we agree on a price and off I go. As a result, I am now booked on a flight to Lukla. I could not get a decent photo of the runway, so I stole this image off EverestNews.com

Later in the morning once my bag arrives (somehow it did NOT get loaded on my plane) My Sherpa, (Pemba Chiring Sherpa) hires a porte for me, and 3 porters to meet up with us later when necessary. For now, we need to start hiking and get to the little town of Pakding.

Kathmandu Again

Back in Kathmandu. Bill took this photo of Niels and I getting a post clilmb shave. Tom was kind enough to share his favorite Kathmandu barber (right across from Northfield Cafe, which has the most consistent internet access in town). A nice shave with a razor (rough cut then even smoother) was 150 rupess. That's about $2.10. After the 6 of us were done, we headed to the New Orleans and had beers, food and dessert. What you cannot clearly see from this photo is we've all showered, had a fresh shave, and are wearing really clean clothes. This is the hotel Shankar, where I discovered my second trip had been cancelled. Hmmm...The local operator has offered to give me a private trip, all I need to do is tell them what I want to do. Hmmm...how about climb ANOTHER mountain?

Bus Ride To Kathmandu

So we pile into the bus and head down a windy, twisty, pot hole filled road.
We later stop for lunch.

Colin and I finish up lunch. As I recall, I was beastly hungry, even after the heapin of Yak Curry I had the night before. For the record, spicy yak curry, well let's just say that it, uh, mmm...cleaned me out.

To the Border

Now it was time to get to the border.

Here we are taking what's typically known as a "piss" break.
This was a shot of the Land Crusher heading over a small stream.
We stopped for lunch, and the resident cat decided to come and sleep in my lap. Not sure why, since I just spent 3 weeks in the mountains resulting in a scary look and frankly and even scarier smell. This was a small desert fox who watched us drive by. We stopped and I was able to get this photo of him.

I did a little crop and brighten and got this. Wish I had a good telephoto lens and some better technique!

The crew in Zangmu. Bill, Tom, Me, Niels, Mic, and Colin.