Liberty Bell

Made an attempt of the Beckey route on Liberty Bell. Basically a 5.6-7 route with one 5.9 move along a finger crack past the pitons. I was in climbing boots, so the move would have been much easier in shoes.

Brian and I have become super disciplined about our turn around times.

1. Got a late start.
2. Portions of the trail wiped out by avalance.
3. Got on the wrong trail.
4. Got off route.
5. Didn't belay from the right spot.
6. So, on a Sunday with a 3.5 hour drive back, we bailed.

SNOW

Sometimes we get snow. This time we GOT the mother fucking snow, mother fucker!!

Huge Snow Today in Seattle

Nuff said. Big snow yesterday, big snow tonight.

Spent an hour shoveling snow.

An Event Filled Day

6:07 am - Awake. I was worried about getting out of bed early enough. I guess that isn't a problem
6:21 am - Out of bed, but my brain is a litte foggy
6:25 am - Feed the best dog in the work, Fish Sauce
6:30 am - Put in contact lense
6:42 am - Get CD's ready for drive to Portland
6:45 am - Sit in hot tub...Hmm...
6:55 am - Exit hot tub...Brrr....
6:57 am - Get dressed
7:05 am - Get truck loaded

7:09 am - Leave house, Fish Sauce and I are Big Tundra Riding Dirty
7:12 am - QFC donut purchase :)
7:18 am - Starbucks non fat double tall latte
7:20 am - Southbound Road Bound
10:30 am - Hillsboro area
10:45 am - Arrive Beta bike house
10:47 am - Leave Beta bike house for auto parts store for receiver hitch pin
11:08 am - Reciever hitch pin purchase. Met Richard @ the auto parts store. He liked my truck.
11:25 am - Return to Beta bike house, meet seller
11:35 am - Chitty chat motorcycles
11:55 am - Quick 20 yard ride on Beta bike. Looks good. No blue engine smoke, starts right up.
12:10 pm - Load trailer into receiver
12:25 pm - Load Beta bike onto trailer
12:30 pm - Chat motorcycles again, and buy Gary's trials boots for 20 bucks
12:40 pm - Have no cash, return from Well Fargo ATM
12:42 pm - Chat motorcycle straps

12:45 pm - Say Goodbye
12:50 pm - Arbys Turkey/Swiss sandwich order
12:55 pm - Northbound road bound
4:00 pm - Kekland

4:15 pm - Unload stuff from truck
4:30 pm - Clean up Gaerne http://www.gaerne.com/ boots. (pronounced gah-earn-ah)
5:20 pm - Power nap
6:00 pm - Animal feeds
6:04 pm - Dinner prep begins
6:25 pm - Eat Dinner
6:45 pm - Watch movie http://www.netflix.com/Movie/The_Yes_Men/70000103?trkid=222336&lnkctr=srchrd-sr&strkid=1742694367_0_0
8:30 pm - Watch DVR recorded HBO show, Flight of the Conchords
9:02 pm - Tub time
9:35 pm - Exit tub time
10:10 - Lights out
10:15 - Post movie blog http://suckymovies.blogspot.com/2008/03/yes-men.html
10:23 - Blog about movie blog

So overall, not a bad drive to Portland. Met some really nice people who've decided to get rid of a couple of their motorcycle toys. Mostly hers not his. Fish Sauce always loves a road trip.

The Beta bike is nice. It started right up and is in really good shape. I gave them their asking price as that was more than reasonable. What benefit to I really gain in haggling? None.

Loading the bike was pretty easy, and even with my cheapy straps (not really heavy duty motorcycle straps) the bike sat back on the trailer really well. That trailer is another great Craigslist purchase!

The boots were a total surprise. I didn't really even know what I was buying, as I'd never seen a trials boot. They appear softer and more wearable than an MX or Road boot. Nice rubber platform for your feet. Honestly they looked as if they've only been worn a couple of times, max.

Once I got them home and really inpected them, it was clear they were a little dried out (since they had sat from unuse) but with some light Simple Green scrubbing and a good application of mink oil really cleaned up nice. All leather Italian made trials riding boots? What a huge score! They are the balance oiled model. Very classic.

Dixie Dog in Spookaloo Snow

She's a sweet dog, too bad she's such a chucklehead.I'm pretty sure Mom's healer isn't supposed to be up to her knees in snow.

No winter climbing!

We've had such huge weather in the Cascades that it's downright dangerous. Snow, Rain, Snow, Rain. Mountain snow doesn't like huge variablity. Bummer....Oh well, I have other plans until the summer comes.

Dogs Dogs Dogs

Dogs! KurDog, RedDog, Dixie Dog
Skeet

Pep

Mac

Slippery Slab

North Cascades, kinda near Steven Pass

Camera Phone video before we start.

We later had to change routes since I couldn't lead the mossy second pitch.

This was the first part of the climb, just a scramble. I'm hauling a full rack and a 70m climbing rope.

This was the first and only pitch, and it was kinda a combo of a slab/ramp and a chimney. The tough part was a small finger width crack I had to do my best to cram my fingers in. I sketched out a couple of times, as it was pretty damned hard to get decent foot placement. I damn near peeled off.

Brian and I on the top of slippery slab tower, about 2:30pm. We signed the summit register and headed home.

Not a great shot, but the tower in the background is what we climbed. We were back at the car in 1.5 hours and home by 7pm.

Thompson - Again

So last weekend, Brian and I decided we would try Thompson again. This attempt would be different:

• Leave from his cabin @ Alpinetal
• Leave super early
• Go as light as we can
• Go as fast as we can

As we're unloading things from my truck, I lock the keys in the cab. Nice. Not a big deal as most of my climbing gear is in the shell, and it is unlocked. So it looks like we will walk to the trail head. No biggie, maybe half a mile.

Brian and I drink a beer and relax. Try to get to bed early since it is an early rise. At 12:15 I wake up and remember I have a special credit card key in my wallet. How could I be so stupid as to not remember that? Jesus, am an idiot. I lay awake for the next 3+ hours waiting for the alarm. It doesn't go off and finally I get up @ 4am.

I eat a big bowl of Museli, as I'm not gonna bonk on this epic SOB. We're on the trail @ 5. Not bad, actually 5:02. An hour or so up the trail, we're making good time, but I'm hearing voices...Shit, somebody is on the trail behind us? Hell. An hour or so later, they pass us. Climbers. Where they headed? They say Thompson. Shit. Shit. Shit. It could be a problem. If they get on the rock BEFORE us, then we have to wait for them. Thompson is a long approach in and out. Last time (about 2 months ago) it was a 17 hour day. We were back at the car at midnight. Brutal. I have never been so completely wiped out.

So we press on. As we get near the lakes area of PCT they stop and chat with a couple of folks who spent the night near the lakes. It's 7:30 in the AM, who wants to chitty chat? I see that as our opportunity. We pass the 4 of them and I pick up the pace. I want us on the rock ASAP. Brian was on his toes as in the fog we nearly miss the left hand turn to scramble up what is called Bumblebee Pass. We hear voices behind us and really start moving. We get to the top and it's wet and cloudy and foggy and looking really bad. Shit. Shit. Now the weather is gonna keep us from attempt number 4? Shit. We eat a bite and take a breather trying to decide what to do next. I'm about 50/50 on bailing. Brian says, lets at least get to the other side of the bowl. We push on. The fog is super thick as it's really difficult to see where the notch is on the other side. None of the snow is left from our attempt 2 months ago. Where is that notch? We know where it is in general as we've been there 3 times before, but pretty hard to make out when you can barely see 100 feet in front of you. Then, the sky breaks for a minute, and we see the notch. We are so psyched. Hell maybe the weather will let up.

As we put on our boots and start to rack up on the first pitch, we hear voices. There they are, just minutes behind us. As the four of them come around the first big rock, we're ready to go. Brian has built a rock solid (ha ha) anchor and I'm tied in and ready to try this bastard again. We brought a new 9.9 mm 70 meter dual weave dry rope, I got on sale @ backcountry.com. Those guys have good stuff at good prices.

Pitch 1 - Climb a chimney. I remember. Turn towards they north and climb another climney. I remember it too. Scramble over the burley bush. Go. I'm feeling good, but the rope drag is really starting to be burdensome. I'm near the end of the rope. I find a decent ledge and set up a belay station. I have to huff and puff to really bring in the rope. We should have used more doubles and triple runners.

Pitch 2 - Climb up and around a corner. Move up slow and steady. Ah here is the ledge I remember last time. How did I get up this? I move to the right, and put in an Alien...Hmm, I don't like it. I step down and head back to the ledge. Shit what now. Ah hell, just climb. I put in that same Alien Cam @ the ledge and hope that if I fall, it will stay stuck in the crack. It was a while ago that i put pro in...If I fall, and that Alien pulls, it's really gonna hurt. Later I get to the ridgeline. I remember this spot as my water bottle fell out of the sleeve last time. I think it went a couple hundred feet. I wonder, did it break? It was my livestrong bottle. Damn. Oh well. Better the bottle than me! I decide the rope drag is so bad that I have to belay Brian from this spot. I tug on the rope and it barely moves. Jesus. This is gonna take a while. After quite a while of tugging, and my arms are burning like hell. I get Brian up the the ledge.

Ridgeline - I bring Brian up and we're gonna protect the next slabby section. I put in a couple pieces but soon I'm out of rope. Good thing too. I was getting tired of rope drag, once again. Our climber friends are right behind us. They are proably better climbers, and they are in rock shoes, not boots. Two distinct advantages. I tell Brian, I need a break. He has to lead as the rope drag is killing me and I need just a bit of a breather.

Brian heads to the left up a little ramp and around the corner. The rope is moving pretty fast as I'm guessing, it's pretty easy climbing. It is. In a few minutes he's on the top, but this is not the summit. We walk along the top and discover a small ridge. Brian leads out, as he scrambles over and climbs an easy 4th class pitch. He brings me up and we toss the rope down and walk to the top. The sun clears up the fog and we sit for a half an hour enjoying the view.

Money Shot

Me on the top, facing north, the southern hump is just behind me.

Summit Movie

We walk north and with two rappells down, are near a meadow where we can walk down the far eastern side of Thompson. This appears to be the scramble route up. You mean we could have walked up? Jesus H?

We get down the scree/talus field and in to the bottom of the bowl. Nice snow melt water. We fill up the water bottles, eat a snack and head back up the other side of the bowl, back to bumblebee pass and PCT will take us home. Moving fast, we are back at the parking lot in 3 hours.

• Trailhead - 5:00 am
• Bumblee Pass - 8:30 am
• First Pitch - 10:00 am
• Summit - 2:00 pm
• Depart - 2:30 pm
• Bottom of bowl - 4:30 pm
• Trailside - 5:30 pm
• Trailhead - 8:30 pm
• Total Time 15:30 hours

Damn Snow

So if you look @ weather patterns throughout the US of A, pretty much most western states are in a serious drought. Colorado, Montana, Arizona, New Mexico. What about Washington and Oregon? Uh. No. Not quite. Not close. We've got so damned much water it's scary. Hell there is still SO much snow up in the Cascades. In fact, I've been here 13 years and I don't remember this much snow, so late...ever.

So Brian and I tried to climb a simplish route yesterday, kinda near Skykomish.

Uh...hello snow.
Don't you need to go?
I've been waiting for you to melt
Even if it's slow.

I'd like to do some climbing
Instead of this stupid rhyming
And this is how I've felt
You've got such shitty timing.

An hour up the trail, it was wet, raining, cold, and snow covered. Not sure if our climing season is a bust this year....Maybe good glacier climbing, but as far as the pure alpine pursuit....I'm skeptical.

Can anybody say Vantage? How about Smith Rock?

Da Toof

Just north of da toof. Mt Byrant in the background.
Brian's Cuzzin Tim (that's how they spell it in Kansas, Ohio, Iowa, where ever. Cuzzin Tim did pretty well considering a) he doesn't hike b) he lives in where ever, and c) we move fast. I was pretty impressed since I figured we'd drop him like a hot rock in the snow the first sleep section. Nope...He hung tough. Nice job Cuzzin Tim.
More scenes pics of da toof.

BTW, we got to the first pitch and 12 people were queued up BEFORE us and that didn't include who was on the mountain. We ate a snack and decided BS on that, and headed to try Chair Peak.
Me headed towards Chair Peak, but we couldn't make it all the way over there and get off the mountain in a decent time. We had no successful summits (oh I did scramble up this little peak just for something to do) but we did have a pretty good time. GREAT glissading BTW.

Mid Spring Guye Peak

Brian and I decide we're gonna try Guye peak. We were not successful. Rock was too slick andt the route we were trying to scope out was to brushy and hard to protect.

Brian on the snowy approach.

I have no idea, but it was funny.

I guess Brian isn't having as good a time as I am?

We ended up bagging the attempt and heading home early.

Mailbox Peak

Kuri decides that she would like to hike to the top of mailbox peak. Being the accomodating human Iam, I agree to drive her, take dog cookies as a summit treat, and carry her water for her. Kuri makes it with energy to spare. I however, I was pretty damned tired when we got back to the truck.

Is that a hole in yer ass?

Since we downclimbed with so few protection pieces, on many occasions it was just as easy to sit on our butts and slide down the rock, slow and easy. Well for Michelle, that came @ a price since she was wearing some lightweight adventure racing tights. I think these went into the trash bin after our little adventure, didn't they Michelle?

Wild Blueberries!

So we make our way back to camp. Safe and sound we decide to stop and feast on some of the millions (no kidding) wild blueberries that have ripened in the September sun. These things could not taste any better. Many are too perfect for words.

Mt Baker

So, it's time to climb Baker. Mid-morning departure @ the Heliopolis Parking Lot.
Baker and wildflowers on the way up.

Brian really struggling to make it to Hogsback ridge. As a result, we have to abandon our quest for the top. Later that week, we find out why. I considerd going solo, but thought it was better to stay @ camp. Sunset with Mt. Baker in the background.

I am scarfing the Starbucks Pumpkin Scone I left in my truck the day before. I thought about it, the entire way down, hoping it wasn't too dried out to eat. Man I was prepared for a major bum out if it was hard as a rock. It wasn't, and I ate it in 2 bites.

BTW, in my opinion, Mt Baker area is MUCH prettier (more trees, better scenery, more mountains in the distance) and nicer (not as many people, more rustic) as Rainier.

Rainier Climb

I get asked quite frequently (by folks who know I climb a little) "Have you climbed Rainier...Have you climbed Rainier? Have you"....enough already. Time to do something about it.

Departure @ the parking lot. I am sporting my newly purchased top of the line, state of the art, Arc'teryx Naos 55 backpack. I've used it a couple times, and have been very impressed. OK, on with the climb.

So, since they are rebuilding Paradise Lodge, most of the parking lot is closed down, so they have to shuttle people in and out. What a zoo! When they get done, Paradise will be FANTASTIC!

Me @ Camp Muir, mid-day. It was warm (hot?) there on the snow field in the sun.

We left camp Muir @ 10K feet @ midnight, and basically made the slog to the top. Went non-stop at a good moderate, steady pace, and got to the top @ about 7am. We passed all sorts of people sitting in the snow, right next to trail. What were they doing?

Anyway...Brian did really well, I neglected to eat anything all night so I pretty much bonked @ 5am in the morning about 13K in elevation. Somehow I was able to push on, and get to the top. We stayed for a couple of hours eating and drinking some water, and headed down @ 9am. Got back to Muir 1pm, and back to the car @ 4pm Sunday. Overall, Rainier is a good conditioning climb, but so much more of the Cascades have so much to offer.

Vesper Peak

For weekend fun, Brian and I decide to scramble Vesper Peak.
Awesome!

Silver Peak

Michelle and I take the dogs to scramble up Silver Peak.

Michelle was very popular since she had dog cookies. See how we all gather around? They generated such interest, that I even wanted one.

This photo makes me laugh.

Rainier Snowboarding

Brian and I decide to hike to Camp Muir @ Rainier, and snowboard down.

This was fun, but the snow was really cupped from the melting sun. With 30 lbs of climbing gear (in case we wanted to continue past Camp Muir) it was harder than I thought.