Saturday, March 31, 2007

AAC Weekend in Bend - Smith Rock Clinic

So Saturday is spend in two (AM and PM) climbing clinics @ Smith Rock. Since Brian and I climb together all the time, we figured it would be better if we signed up for DIFFERENT clinics so we could get more exposure to different folks. Folks milling around at about 8am.
Early morning climbers....There were some ladies with cameras taking photos. As one of the climbers peeled off the rock (it happens) she let out this squeal, not knowing he was top roped and totally safe....She was kinda big, and I thought she was gonna have a heart attack right there. :)
This is Mark, a EXUM mountain guide climbing the 5.12 something or other.
As Mark finishes the route, he does a pendulum swing over to the crack on his right, and feeds an additional rope through the anchors so we can climb the crack.
In the meantime, random people are hanging out, either waiting to climb or watching the masters.
This is Chris Linder (pro) climbing a nice little 5.10 route as a warm up. Chris is 23 and has been climbing since he was three years old. His dad was a climber, so that is where he learned.This is Chris on the next route over a 5.12 or 5.13.
Chris again. When he's lowered to the bottom he says, in a dude type fashion. "Wow...I first climbed that route like 11 years ago. Wild." I'm thinking, Jesus H Christ...You were like 12 years old. For the record, I could sooner flap my arms and fly up that route than climb it.

I try my own little magic....and have some success, but can't make the moves to top out.

By the look on my face here, I'm working hard.
Back on the ground.

I do the "shot" with Linder and I.

Later we get together for session two. Steve House is kind enough to belay for me, and I pick my way up an easy route. Brian, who blew his ankle @ Marymoor, is hanging out, watching the action. We have some epic climbs planned this summer....so his ankle better heal quick!

****

Later that evening, we're treated to a slideshow/video by Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden. Tommy climbed two routes on El Cap in one 24 hour period. As I recall, it was 60+ pitches. Those of you who don't know, a pitch is a segment of climbing where you typically swap leads, limited by your rope length, usually 50-60 meters or 150-180 feet. That much climbing is unheard of. That much climbing where portions are 5.13 are unthinkable. Most folks take days to get to the top of El Cap. Even if you CAN go in a day, running down to the bottom to then climb up ANOTHER route, and do that all night?

****

On a different note, I sought out Yvon Chouinard to tell him I loved his company and loved what he's done for the climbing community....With a big smile he graciously thanked me. I didn't want to bother the guy, so I quickly faded back into the banquet crowd.

Friday, March 30, 2007

AAC Weekend in Bend

So the American Alpine Club had it's annual meeting in Bend. Brian and I decide to kill two birds with one stone....Go down to this meeting (since it is driving distance) and look at the Ducati that was previously listed on ebay.

The AAC put on a pretty good weekend. Friday night was a slide show and presentation by Steve House and Vince Anderson on their recent (last year) climb up Nanga Parbat face in Nepal
Epic is so overused in today's climbing world...Hell I use it when I hike Tiger Mountain in my teva sandles...However these guys did this amazing route, in 6 days.

Thursday, March 22, 2007

It's back

So I thought that I killed the motorcycle thing....it came back....can't shake it.....must have motorcycle....This is a pic of Phil's motorcycle, the same model I desire....The Ducati 1000 Sport Classic, Paul Smart Limited Edition. I think I'm closer to getting one, I may have to Bend OR break....More details later.

Added to the collection:
Leathers - http://www.vansonleathers.com/images/new_products/CSR2.jpg
Brain Cover - http://www.araiamericas.com/helmet_details.asp?model=PROFILE
Booties - http://www.sidi.it/eng/motorcycle/art_d.asp?ATp_ID=M01&Art_ID=MVVERTIGOTE

More You Tubes:
Blastin by
Race Track Wheelies

Thursday, March 15, 2007

AAC meeting in Bend OR

The American Alpine Club is having it's annual meeting in Bend OR! This is a pretty cool even, since they have asked some of the best climbers in the country to come out and give instruction, in one of the coolest places to climb, Brian (I broke my girlie ankle) and I are going

Holy FUCKING SHIT! OK, I just looked to see who is showing up! This is gonna be so very cool. Do NOT forget my camera!

Saturday, March 10, 2007

Oh my God

Ok some things are so cool, you just can't believe it. This is one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGbbag9dklU
See what I mean?

Oh and here is another.
http://money.cnn.com/2007/02/15/news/companies/hooters_drink/index.htm
God Bless America, land that I love.

Wow
http://www.bananabunker.com/
I usually only see something like this in an adult film.

Tuesday, March 06, 2007

Time to Wake Up

“Because the struggle for gay marriage is so prominent, it’s easy for most people to forget that in 33 states, it’s still perfectly legal to fire someone simply for being lesbian, gay, bisexual or transgendered,” said Shelley Alpern, vice president of Trillium Asset, which specializes in socially responsible investing.

We have a long way to go, don't we?