Saturday, March 31, 2007

AAC Weekend in Bend - Smith Rock Clinic

So Saturday is spend in two (AM and PM) climbing clinics @ Smith Rock. Since Brian and I climb together all the time, we figured it would be better if we signed up for DIFFERENT clinics so we could get more exposure to different folks. Folks milling around at about 8am.
Early morning climbers....There were some ladies with cameras taking photos. As one of the climbers peeled off the rock (it happens) she let out this squeal, not knowing he was top roped and totally safe....She was kinda big, and I thought she was gonna have a heart attack right there. :)
This is Mark, a EXUM mountain guide climbing the 5.12 something or other.
As Mark finishes the route, he does a pendulum swing over to the crack on his right, and feeds an additional rope through the anchors so we can climb the crack.
In the meantime, random people are hanging out, either waiting to climb or watching the masters.
This is Chris Linder (pro) climbing a nice little 5.10 route as a warm up. Chris is 23 and has been climbing since he was three years old. His dad was a climber, so that is where he learned.This is Chris on the next route over a 5.12 or 5.13.
Chris again. When he's lowered to the bottom he says, in a dude type fashion. "Wow...I first climbed that route like 11 years ago. Wild." I'm thinking, Jesus H Christ...You were like 12 years old. For the record, I could sooner flap my arms and fly up that route than climb it.

I try my own little magic....and have some success, but can't make the moves to top out.

By the look on my face here, I'm working hard.
Back on the ground.

I do the "shot" with Linder and I.

Later we get together for session two. Steve House is kind enough to belay for me, and I pick my way up an easy route. Brian, who blew his ankle @ Marymoor, is hanging out, watching the action. We have some epic climbs planned this summer....so his ankle better heal quick!

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Later that evening, we're treated to a slideshow/video by Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden. Tommy climbed two routes on El Cap in one 24 hour period. As I recall, it was 60+ pitches. Those of you who don't know, a pitch is a segment of climbing where you typically swap leads, limited by your rope length, usually 50-60 meters or 150-180 feet. That much climbing is unheard of. That much climbing where portions are 5.13 are unthinkable. Most folks take days to get to the top of El Cap. Even if you CAN go in a day, running down to the bottom to then climb up ANOTHER route, and do that all night?

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On a different note, I sought out Yvon Chouinard to tell him I loved his company and loved what he's done for the climbing community....With a big smile he graciously thanked me. I didn't want to bother the guy, so I quickly faded back into the banquet crowd.

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